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Blog news ~ Inclusive Sizing

Why I Changed My Size Chart

by
Marisa Ryniak
-
November 13, 2018

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Why I Changed My Size Chart

We changed so much in 2018! I did a lot of new things this year—including changing the size chart and grading software I use. Read on to find out more about why it mattered so much.

A New Software

Actually, the change in size chart happened in 2017, but I fleshed it out a bit more this year as I began to learn a new software for drafting and grading. Most indie PDF pattern designers use Adobe Illustrator to draft and grade patterns. When we first started out in 2014, I also used Illustrator. It was great until I drafted more complex women’s patterns. With darts, cup sizes, and a wide range of sizes, I felt limited with the Illustrator software. I was on the prowl for something that would streamline my process.

I had heard about a few designers using a program called PadShare and I gave it a go! It was a major learning curve but one that I’m happy I decided to invest in. My new software allowed me to draft and grade more accurately as well as update a lot of my older patterns. I updated our most popular patterns: the Emily T-shirt, Sydney Raglan, Dani Joggers, Scarlett Jeans, Penelope Camisole, Tula Dress, Samantha Dress, and Taylor leggings. The remaining patterns will be updated over the next several months and you’ll see a few new additions in there as well.

What About the Old Patterns?

Now, the question on most people’s minds will probably be, “Was there something wrong with the older patterns?” Well, yes and no! The older versions of the patterns were great. We tested them thoroughly and each size worked well. But my thinking was that just because each size worked well, it doesn’t make a neat pattern. I’m a perfectionist, so I wanted to offer you the best I could give you as you used the patterns. Things like shoulder points, necklines, and hems were not exact between the sizes and that just didn’t cut it for me. Part of the reason the patterns weren’t equal between the sizes was my size chart.

The new Emily: What a thing of beauty! The grading is even and neat
The old Emily: The shoulder and armscye grading leaves a lot to be desired in my mind!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I developed my women’s size chart, I took measurements from the ASTM standards and several other places. Essentially, I averaged between the few size charts I sourced. Unfortunately, it didn’t produce an even grade between the sizes. To fix this, in 2017, I changed my women’s size chart to a single/double grading system. Sizes 00-12 are graded with a single grading system, meaning there’s one evolution per size. My evolution is 1″ horizontally, so you get a 1″ total difference between the side seams of my patterns for size 00-12. For double grading, there are two evolutions. So for sizes 12-26 I have a 2″ total difference between the side seams of my patterns. The grading is much neater and more appealing.

Making the Patterns Fit You

Now, how do real life bodies fit into this new size chart? With all my patterns made or updated after December 2017, I can get pinpoint accuracy with the grading. That means if your measurements fall within multiple sizes, all you need to do it grade between those sizes at each point in the garment. I use bust, waist, and hip lines to help you with the grading and it produces such an accurately sized garment for each person!

In late 2017, I also added sewing cup sizes to my patterns which helps tremendously when sewing. Having a D sewing cup size myself, I always needed to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) to my patterns. What a pain in the neck! So I added sewing cup sizes A-E to my patterns to help sewists take the guesswork out of sewing them.

My firm belief is that each body is beautiful no matter the size, shape, or color. You all deserve a well fitting pattern and it’s my job to help you achieve that. If I give you the most accurately graded pattern I can, your job gets that much easier.

Future Plans

All of these changes come, in part, because of new plans I have for my business. Paper printed patterns is my ultimate goal for 2019! Putting it out on the interwebs is a little scary, but I’m hoping it will give me greater confidence to get it accomplished. Wish me luck!

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Instagram post 2187915189470639149_1367484020 It’s a sale! Starting today and ending on 12/2, you can get 20% off all the patterns in the shop. Why choose Laela Jeyne Patterns? We’re an all person inclusive pattern company featuring a large size range and exceptional value in each pattern. My goal is for you to use my patterns to make essential additions to your wardrobe that fit your body. I focus on body and self acceptance and am continually trying to look for ways to make my business more inclusive. . . . . #slowsewing #imakemyownclothes #sewcialistsofinstagram #memadewardrobe #sewsewsew #imadethis #sewingfun #makerstrong #wocentrepreneur #selfishsewing
Instagram post 2187220069792526220_1367484020 Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate! I hope you enjoy your day wherever this finds you ❤️❤️
Instagram post 2186617058070110197_1367484020 Thank you so much for joining me this year on my little corner of Instagram. I'm so happy to have celebrated 4 years in the biz this year and I'm glad to have gotten to serve the sewing community for this long. I hope you'll find lots of new to you patterns in my shop during the sale! The 20% sale will run from 11/29 to 12/2. We don't have sales often and you'll get an exceptional value in all the patterns we have available. Find all our patterns at the link in our bio. . . . . #slowsewing #imakemyownclothes #sewcialistsofinstagram #memadewardrobe #sewsewsew #imadethis #sewingfun #makerstrong #wocentrepreneur #selfishsewing
Instagram post 2185898343643900787_1367484020 How can I not share the Taylor leggings pattern? It's a fantastic addition to your wardrobe that will help you create effortless outfits. I even hacked two pairs of Taylors to add a phone pocket to the front waist. I'll be sure to put a tutorial on the blog next year. You can find all the patterns featured at the link in my bio. The sale starts on 11/29. . . . . #sewcialists #indiesewing #indiedyersofinstagram #makersmovement #sewingpatterns #memadeeveryday #handmadewardrobe #sewersgonnasew #imakemyownclothes
Instagram post 2185196914390245163_1367484020 Tied for my favorite cool weather pattern is the Sydney Raglan. The raglans I've made are so cozy and are great for an effortless outfit. I've even hacked the neckline to get more coverage on the shoulders with a scoop neck instead of a v-neck. You can find all the featured patterns at the link in my bio. The 20% off sale starts 11/29! . . . . #momstyle #millennialsewing #memade #sewcialists #lovetosew #fashionsewing #sewingpattern #sewingfun #makeyourownclothes #sewinglovers #sewyourown #mamasews
Instagram post 2184320419341830135_1367484020 Of course I have to share my stud modeling the Emmett T-shirt. The Emmett will serve you well with so many style combos. My husband's favorite is his Marvel comic henley that I made him. He wears it weekly ❤️ You can find all the patterns featured at the link in my bio. The 20% sale starts Friday 11/29. . . . . #sewcialists #indiesewing #indiedyersofinstagram #makersmovement #sewingpatterns #memadeeveryday #handmadewardrobe #sewersgonnasew #imakemyownclothes
Instagram post 2183639422765971369_1367484020 Joggers are the best but what if you have woven fabric that's just asking to be joggers? I've got you covered with the Dani Joggers pattern. The Danis can be a pj bottom or can be dressed up to work it for a night out. My short length Dani joggers are my best friend in the warm months. You can find all the featured patterns at the link in my bio. Sale starts 11/29 and ends 12/2. . . . . #momstyle #millennialsewing #memade #sewcialists #lovetosew #fashionsewing #sewingpattern #sewingfun #makeyourownclothes #sewinglovers #sewyourown #mamasews
Instagram post 2183073329106294530_1367484020 If you're looking to make your holidays extra special (and comfortable), let me recommend the Cozy PJ pattern. This pattern can be made for any adult with a few adjustments to length for the taller wearers. The Cozy PJ's got a great update this year and is a timeless pattern that will leave you feeling lovely in your new pj's. You can get all the patterns featured at the link in my bio. Sale starts 11/29. . . . . #sewcialists #indiesewing #indiedyersofinstagram #makersmovement #sewingpatterns #memadeeveryday #handmadewardrobe #sewersgonnasew #imakemyownclothes
Instagram post 2182281707821121384_1367484020 Of course I can't forget about the Sable sweater. It's a cozy add on to your cool weather wardrobe and comes together quickly. The best part of sewing the Sable? No hems! The Sable and all the patterns in the shop will be 20% off from 11/29 to 1/2 with no code needed. You can find all the patterns featured at the link in my bio 📎 . . . . #slowsewing #imakemyownclothes #sewcialistsofinstagram #memadewardrobe #sewsewsew #imadethis #sewingfun #makerstrong #wocentrepreneur #selfishsewing
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